The history of mountaineering in Nepal is rich and deeply intertwined with both global exploration and local culture. Nepal, home to eight of the world's fourteen highest peaks, including Mount Everest, has long been a magnet for adventurers, mountaineers, and explorers from across the globe.
Early Exploration and the Discovery of Nepal’s Peaks
Pre-1950s: The Closed Kingdom
Until the mid-20th century, Nepal remained a relatively isolated kingdom. Foreigners were largely prohibited from entering, meaning most Himalayan peaks remained unclimbed and unexplored by the outside world.
However, as early as the mid-19th century, European explorers, primarily British surveyors and scientists, had started exploring the Himalayan region. During the Great Trigonometric Survey in the 1840s, British surveyors first identified Sagarmatha (Mount Everest) as the world’s highest peak.
The British Expeditions to the Himalayas (1900s-1930s)
While access to Nepal was restricted, early mountaineering attempts to climb Mount Everest came from the north, through Tibet.
In the 1920s and 1930s, several British expeditions attempted to summit Everest via the Tibetan side. Some, like George Mallory and Andrew Irvine in 1924, came close, but none succeeded in reaching the summit. These expeditions sparked a global interest in the Himalayas, especially Nepal’s towering peaks.
Opening of Nepal and the Golden Age of Mountaineering (1950-1960s)
Nepal officially opened its borders to foreign visitors in 1949, marking the beginning of the modern era of mountaineering in the country.
First Ascent of Mount Everest (1953)
The most iconic event in Nepalese mountaineering history came on May 29, 1953, when Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa from Nepal, became the first people to reach the summit of Mount Everest.
This historic ascent marked a new era of international mountaineering in Nepal, attracting climbers from all over the world to attempt other major Himalayan peaks.
Conquering Other 8,000-Meter Peaks
Following Everest, the 1950s saw the first ascents of several of Nepal’s highest peaks:
Annapurna I (8,091m) by a French team led by Maurice Herzog in 1950, marking the first successful ascent of an 8,000-meter peak.
Makalu (8,485m) by a French team in 1955.
Lhotse (8,516m) by a Swiss team in 1956.
Manaslu (8,163m) by a Japanese team in 1956.
These expeditions established Nepal as the epicenter of high-altitude mountaineering.
Emergence of the Sherpas
Throughout the 1950s, the Sherpa community of Nepal gained international recognition for their extraordinary mountaineering skills, endurance, and local knowledge of the Himalayan terrain.
The Sherpas, originally an ethnic group living in the Everest region, became renowned as indispensable guides and climbers. Many, like Tenzing Norgay, achieved global fame for their contributions to successful expeditions.
Commercial Mountaineering and Growing Popularity (1970s-2000s)
Rise of Commercial Expeditions
By the 1970s, with many of Nepal’s peaks already climbed, the focus shifted to making Himalayan mountaineering more accessible to amateur climbers. Commercial expeditions, where climbers could pay to join organized attempts on Everest and other peaks, became increasingly popular.
In 1985, American climber Dick Bass popularized the idea of climbing the "Seven Summits" (the highest peak on each continent), further boosting the allure of Everest and other Nepalese mountains.
Tragic Disasters and Growing Concerns
As the number of climbers increased, so did the dangers. In 1996, a tragic disaster on Mount Everest claimed the lives of eight climbers, becoming the subject of Jon Krakauer’s famous book, "Into Thin Air".
The commercialization of Everest and other peaks led to concerns over safety, environmental degradation, and the preservation of local culture and traditions.
Environmental and Ethical Challenges
By the 2000s, over-crowding on Everest, waste management issues, and the pressure on the Sherpa community were becoming critical challenges. Efforts to clean up Everest, led by organizations like the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, gained momentum, but the mountain’s popularity continued to strain local ecosystems and resources.
Recent Developments (2010s-Present)
Technological Advancements and Records
In recent years, improved technology, gear, and logistics have made mountaineering in Nepal more accessible to a broader range of climbers, leading to new records and feats. For instance:
Kami Rita Sherpa holds the record for the most ascents of Mount Everest, having summited the peak 28 times as of 2023.
Nirmal Purja, a Nepalese climber and former Gurkha, gained worldwide fame for his speed ascent of all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in just six months and six days in 2019.
Economic Impact
Tourism, particularly mountaineering, has become one of Nepal’s most important industries. Climbing permits, trekking guides, and associated tourism services contribute significantly to the national economy.
Despite challenges, the lure of Nepal’s peaks continues to attract thousands of climbers annually, with Mount Everest remaining the ultimate goal for many.
Conservation and Sustainability
There has been a growing focus on sustainable mountaineering and eco-tourism to preserve the delicate Himalayan environment. Initiatives like the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, aim to protect the region’s natural beauty and cultural heritage.
Cultural and Spiritual Importance of Mountaineering
For the people of Nepal, particularly the Sherpas and other indigenous communities living in the shadow of the Himalayas, the mountains hold deep spiritual significance. Many peaks, including Mount Everest (Sagarmatha), are regarded as sacred, embodying gods and spirits. This cultural reverence for the mountains adds another dimension to the history of mountaineering in Nepal, making it not just a sport but a spiritual journey for many climbers.
Mountaineering in Nepal has evolved from early exploratory expeditions into a global phenomenon, with the country becoming synonymous with high-altitude adventure. It continues to attract both seasoned climbers and enthusiastic amateurs, while the mountains themselves, steeped in myth, history, and spirituality, remain a powerful draw for all who visit.
